Beaches Around Puerto Escondido, Mexico

Each morning we walk barefoot in the sand along Zicatela Beach…what a relaxing way to start the day. Besides burning off last night’s indulgences, the sound of waves provides passive meditation  in the middle of this playground for dogs, surfers, fishers and walkers.

After huevos rancheros or huevos divorciados for breakfast, we plop under a palapa (thatch-roofed shelter usually found on a beach) for the remainder of the day and read or write or look and listen. Oh Mexico.

Let’s take a walk-about around a point that leads to another bay. The walkway twists around cliffs over the rocks to Bahia Puerto Angelito, a sheltered bay full of fishing boats and ocean activities, but that is not what we seek this morning. We’re looking for a little more solitude.

Farther along the coast and straight down several hundred stone stairs, we find Playa Carrizalillo, a small, hidden paradise with a beach safe for swimming. Go ahead…order a Corona with breakfast, it goes well with huevos a la Mexicana.

After a swim we find ourselves, well you guessed it, under a palapa again. What do you do under there? Whatever you want. Today we sit and just be and thank the abundant universe that we do not have to rush home to jobs back in the states.

We walk through town on our way back to Zicatela. El Adoquin (Paving stone) is full of relaxed pedestrians and shops and restaurants. A stroll across Bahia Principal, the public beach/marina, brings us back to our oasis at Zicatela Bungalows, where happy hour in the pool descends with the sunset.

Things slow down so much here that time is quickly passing by…and we wonder how long we could stay?

A few days from now we will say goodbye to our friends here and fly back to Zihua, where we’ll savor our final four days on a Mexican beach. 

Puerto Escondido, the Hidden Port of Oaxaca, Mexico

A 4.6 magnitude earthquake almost rattles us out of bed. I did not know that solid, cement box springs could quiver. After kicking-back here on Zicotela Beach for about a week, it may take more than an earthquake to get a rise out of us. We also enjoy a torrential downpour that is more rare than a quake this time of year.

Professional surfers flock to this International Pipeline destination. We watch them while sitting under our palapa, safe from the lethal undertow of huge waves, astounded by how the surfers keep getting back up after taking multiple body blows from the pounding surf. No swimming here…only with a surfboard.

Thong bikinis and board shorts rule the fashion, and I thank the Abundant Universe that Speedos have gone out of style. Still, the beach remains nature’s viagra.

A sea turtle lays about 75 eggs and buries them on shore. The crowd of folks is allowed to get near her after she finishes the  arduous task and then heads back out to sea. Her eggs will be dug-up and moved to a safer place for hatching. Baby turtle releases are a popular tourist activity.

Puerto Escondido derives its name from Andres Drake, brother of Sir Francis, who kidnapped and imprisoned a Mixtec Indian woman. She escaped, swam to shore and hid in the jungle never to be found. Since then, other Pirates referred to this place as Bahia de la Escondida, the hidden bay.

Dwight, Chuck, Judy, Chrissie and Scott share some cheer with us back at the casa. The biggest concern of the day is where to eat dinner, who has the best special, and whether or not we will go listen to live music.

For Mare and I, breakfast becomes the favorite meal of the day, and we often forgo dinner and music, opting to enjoy the sunset, take a midnight swim in the pool, and frolic in our room.

Tonight’s sunset reminds me of Planet Jupiter. If I did not know better, steam might ascend after the sun descends into the sea…and no I haven’t had a smoke, at least not today.

Zee What? (Zihuatanejo, Mexico)

“Get busy living or get busy dying,” one of our favorite quotes from Andy, the main character in the movie, “Shawshank Redemption.” Andy made his dreams come true by escaping to Zihuatanejo, Mexico.

Mare and I sit on the beach in this laid-back fishing village with only one regret…we must leave tomorrow for an 18-hour bus ride to Puerto Escondido (Hidden Port). Our recent week-end in Puerto Penasco, (Rocky Point) wets our appetite to re-visit deeper Mexico, you know, down where you hear hardly any English.

“Zihua” relaxes our being. We sit on the beach under a palapa, near fishermen selling their catch and repairing nets. Boats bob in the bay. Our $30 per night cement room offers a clean sheet on a firm mattress. Who needs hot water or a mirror? As soon as the late night music from town ends, the roosters start to crow as if trying to mimic the lyrics of the evening.

Etanilado Valduonos Olea, manager of “Hotel R3 Marias Noria,” spends much of the morning arranging our bus tickets. He ends up driving us to the bus station to purchase tickets to Alcapulco, the first leg of tomorrow’s journey. He won’t accept any money for his efforts. “I just like to help, that’s all.” He explains that hotels are trying to survive a 50% occupancy rate in this small village, next to the larger resort destination of Ixtapa.

Mare and I meander from the beach to town, where we munch on some street tacos and stumble upon a community of white, winter visitors. Many of them sit on street corners sharing quarts of Corona. Mare asks a man, who looks like my reflection (Bald with a goatee), where to find an ATM.

“Ah, Americans,” he responds. “You’re the first ones I’ve seen in a while. Most of them quit coming and us Canadians took over.”

Zihuatanejo derives its name from the Nahuatl Indian word “Zihuatlan,” which means “Place of women.” Spaniards later added the suffix “ejo” which means small. Perhaps if they saw the place today, they might rename it, “Gringos Gordos.”

This last evening in town, we treat ourselves to “Lety’s,” the restaurant next to our hotel. Lety is our hotel manager’s sister. (Across the street, his mother serves daily breakfast to a loyal following of fishermen) Lety shows us an article from the Wall Street Journal travel section that praises her place. “This makes me feel important,” she proudly says. Mare and I don’t feel that fresh shrimp need the help of coconut and sour cream, but Lety’s signature dish of Coconut Shrimp tastes spectacular.

On a bus in the morning we wind along the coast until reaching Alcapulco 4-hours later. While waiting 5-hours for the bus to Puerto Escondido, our eyes burn from exhaust fumes held captive by the humidity, and we dine on grilled chicken from a roadside stand. After an 8-hour bus ride, during which we munch on unrecognizable morsels at the various stops, we arrive at the Hidden Port.  It’s one o’clock in the morning…time to get busy living.